I finally got a chance to start patterning the kirtle. I decided to start with the wedding dress pattern and alter it, which means that I'm doing side back lacing after all. I'm making the foundation of the bodice out of black cotton/linen. The heaviest hemp cord available at the local craft store was 48# (much lighter than the 170# cord used by others), so I was worried that it wouldn't work right. As it turns out, the lighter cord is working very nicely. I'm using two lengths per channel (doubled, so there are four cords total per channel), and it provides ample support. The threading tool I'm using probably wouldn't fit a larger cord, so it's just as well I couldn't find anything larger. Even sewing the channels by hand, it's really not taking nearly as long as I thought it would.
I also stole another of Jen's ideas and made a set of temporary lacing strips, which are a great help for intermediate fittings. I was feeling lazy, so I just sewed rings onto strips of wool. I made them a little too short, so I need to make another set that are a little longer.