Phase One Complete
The corset fit fine, and I was able to drape a bodice pattern directly onto it. The bodice openings are at the side back seams.
category: /silver | permanent link

Corset Progress
I used the instructions here to draft the corset pattern, and it was very close on the first try. After finally making time to fit it, I only had to shift the strap angle a little bit and take a couple inches off the center front. I'm going to finish the front opening last so I can make any necessary adjustments there before doing the lacing holes. I finally got back in the mood to sew when I saw a good deal on boning materials at Wal-Mart. Between sales and discounts due to incorrect scanning, both brooms cost about 5 bucks. Judicious application of a hacksaw got the straw separated from the handle. I removed all but one row of stitching, leaving the last row to keep the straw together until I needed it. I started boning on the back section, using a similar method to what I had done before. I Put a line of stitches even with the bustline to delineate the top edge of the boning. i then put in eight channels, each about 1 1/4" wide and open at the bottom. I filled each channel with a small bunch of straw. I oriented the straw with the narrower ends at the top to try to keep a smooth line across the back. After filing each channel, I sewed through each channel to create three smaller channels, as you can see here. After getting the channels finished, I started binding the edges with strips ripped from the same muslin that the rest of the corset is made of. I cut the tabs and bound the straw with thread to hold it in place until I got the edging sewn on. It didn't take too long, but it took a fair amount of wrestling to get the edging around the corners. The results can be seen here.
category: /silver | permanent link

Nearly There
Everything's done but the eyelets and binding the center front edges. Hopefully it will fit!
category: /silver | permanent link

A Good Excuse
There are always lots of discussions going on about corsetry and I like to stick my nose in them. In reality, however, I've only made a couple corsets and those were years ago. Since everyone seems to be making effigy corsets these days, I decided to try my hand at one. A corset is no use without a dress, though, so I need to make something to go over it as well. I've had this lovely silver and green brocade set aside for my wife for ages. It should do nicely for the gown. I also have some of the striped green silk left from the black trunk hose that I can use for a forepart unless I find something I like better. Here's a sketch of the initial plan. I plan to follow my own advice for the corset, which is to bone it with broom straw. I initially was going to include a busk, but I think I'd like to do something with that convex curve at the front. I don't have many unusual plans for the gown, though much of it will involve things I've never done before (at least not correctly). The sleeves I plan to make wide for maximum comfort. Ideally the same smock that goes under the Flemish gown will work here, especially if I make separate wrist ruffs and attach them to these sleeves. The neck ruff will be taken care of by a new partlet. I want it to actually be sheer, so I may shell out for a decent piece of linen or silk. The brocade pattern just cries out to be beaded, so I may actually do some embellishment for once. I'll also get to use my thrift store jewelry and all the pearl strands I've been collecting.
category: /silver | permanent link