This morning I took out the cartridge pleats and went ahead and installed the pocket bag while I had everything flat again. I redid the pleats with twice as many and it fit the waistband perfectly. Fortunately, the stripes on the silk are just less than an inch apart, so I can use them as a guide for pleating. I pinned some darts in the bottom edge and pinned it all to the foundation. It looks good, but it's still droopier than I want it to be. About half the length of the canion is covered, but it really looks pretty good. As I was driving in to work I realized that what I need to do is slope the bottom edge from back to front, to compensate for the sloping waistline. It drooped much more in the front than the back. I'll re-pin it tonight and see how it looks.